Public transportation is great and I highly recommend it, particularly the trains and the subway. The taxis are very expensive, and unless you're trying to get around during the wee hours of the morning... you don't need them. For travel withing the cities (and for this I can really only speak for Tokyo), the subway is amazing. The ticket purchasing system is a breeze and the subways are all very well labeled. I feel more comfortable with the Tokyo subway than I do the one in NYC. As for busses, this I can only speak for Kyoto. I only took one once, but it was well labeled and pretty cheap. Other people I'd talked to also praised it.
Trains I'll take a bit longer to mention. First and foremost, if you plan to take any time traveling between cities, buy a JR (Japan Rail) Pass. For me the 7 day pass was the same cost as a round trip from Tokyo to Kyoto on the bullet train. The pass itself is only available for tourists, and must be purchased outside japan, and then can easily be exchanged on arrival. I highly recommend it. As for knowing what trains to take, I would begin by recommending the following website: www.hyperdia.com/en/ . This site was great, and you could tell it specific dates and times, departures and arrivals, and even what lines your taking. For example, with the JR Pass, I told it to only search JR lines and the bullet train. (Note, the JR Pass is valid for unlimited service on JR lines and the bullet train ('shinkansen'), not the fastest ('nozomi') but any other... so keep that in mind.) Anyway, the other thing is every train always left exactly on time. So, knowing the departure time and destination was frequently enough to get the the right platform in the station. Again, I highly recommend the trains for intercity travel.
As for what to see, I will speak for Hiroshima, Kyoto, and Tokyo.
Hiroshima is a powerful place. I'm sure that more time can be spent there but I was quite pleased with my day trip. Its easy to see the war memorial sites in a day, and it makes for a pretty full day. I recommend doing it, I'm glad I did. However, do be prepared for some pretty moving things.
Kyoto was great and beautiful. I extend the advice I was given though. When you go, pick a handful of temples to see. Spread them out and see them... but other than those temples, Stop going to them! There are over 300 temples in Kyoto and I've heard people talk about how simply overwhelming their numbers were. I saw a solid handful and they were beautiful. Take the time to see a few (my favorite was the golden pavilion), see them well, and then remember them. Then, I lightly recommend seeing Fushimiinaritaisya Shrine. It might go by a shorter name... but its located in the southeast of Kyoto. Its the shrine with all the red arches. Give yourself a few hours and maybe a snack or drink to just walk through. Its very cool, relaxing and has some great views.
Tokyo is probably the most fun I have ever had in a city. Even just walking around the streets I found pleasant. I would say definitely visit the fish market in Tsukiji, and if at all possible, see the tuna auction. It requires catching the first subway line, but I think its worth it. Also, if you like sushi, set some money aside for this. Go to Sushi Dai, (its the shop with the huge line). Waiting is a bit annoying, but the sushi was great, and it is small enough that the chiefs can give you personal attention. I think its well worth the wait. Other than that, just take subways to different regions of the city. There is so much that's different in such short times. Asakusa is great for some old, cultural sites of the city. Akihabara is a massive electronics and gaming center. Roppongi is the international business center. Shibuya is the most crowded place I've ever seen and it and Harajuku (a short walk) are huge shopping districts. The diversity of sites in such close proximity is great. Lastly, if you want to tour the actual imperial palace I believe you need to make reservations in advance. Otherwise, the gardens are beautiful and the views of the palace (if you can find them) from the public grounds are terrific.
Lastly, the food. Nowhere is the food such a blessing... and such a curse. Eat everything! Everywhere! All the time! Also, be very open to trying new or even random things. The sushi, tempura and upon are all terrific. But there are mysteries like okonokiyaki that I did not know about and am absolutely in love with now. You will find yourself leaving Japan wishing you could just eat Japanese food for the rest of your life.
So yeah, in a nutshell, visit Japan!
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